I was born (1982) in Malacca, now a World Heritage City that’s popular for its Peranakan (Baba-Nyonya) culture.

This unique culture is fast fading away with every passing generation. I come from one such family (mum’s side), and it didn’t occur to me till recently that I’ve been witnessing its tragic demise.

I was fortunate enough to experience this culture in its entirety during my childhood when I lived with my grandparents in Malacca for a couple of years.

In the mean time, I really hope this post proves useful in creating awareness, especially amongst the younger Peranakans and help aid its preservation.

I urge all Peranakans to pass down these recollections of our origin, our traditions, our fading culture.

^This post is dedicated to my beloved grandparents, who’ve brought me up the Peranakan way.

WHAT IS PERANAKAN?

The Peranakan culture mainly involves the strong assimilation of Nusantara (Indonesian archipelago) customs amongst the Chinese immigrants that settled down in the British Straits of Malaya (Malacca, Penang, Singapore) and parts of Indonesia.

The Peranakan probably has the richest mix of culture in Asia (if not the world), carrying elements of English, Javanese, Dutch, Portugese, Indians, Arabs and Persians – who were trading within the busy port of Malacca back then.

Most importantly, Peranakan is a culture, a way of life, more than anything else.

^Peranakan couple.

IS BABA-NYONYA AND PERANAKAN THE SAME THING?

Yes. A male Peranakan is called Baba, and the lady Nyonya, hence the famous term “Baba-Nyonya“. Older ladies are also known as Bibiks. To learn more about Peranakan terms, read this article by Baba Peter Lee.

^Nyonya are female Peranakans.

ARE ALL STRAITS CHINESE CONSIDERED PERANAKANS?

No. Straits Chinese are merely Chinese settlers within the British Straits of Malaya. Only those amongst them that practiced the Peranakan culture are Peranakans.

^A typical Peranakan home setting with the cast of The Little Nyonya in their Peranakan attire.

ARE PERANAKANS CHINESE-MIXED-MALAY?

It is uncertain. It may have started off that way.

What’s certain is the fact that the majority of Peranakans are Chinese who came from China and settled within the Straits,  adopting the strong culture:

Early Chinese traders did marry natives of the Malay archipelago, including Balinese (Hindus) or Batak (Christian) slaves – because Chinese women were by law not allowed to leave China until the middle of the 19th century. After the 19th century, the Peranakan culture continued to spread amongst the large number of Chinese families that still poured into the Straits.

In conclusion, it’s clear to see how Peranakan is a culture, more than anything else.

EXTENDED READING: DEFINITION OF “MALAY”

Worth noting, the context of “Malay” back then differs greatly from today.

“Malay” was synonymous with Srivijaya, rulers of the Malay archipelago. The Srivijaya empire and its natives practiced Brahmins (Hinduism) and Buddhism, meaning the Malays back then were Hindus and Buddhists.

German scientist Johann Friedrich Blumenbach‘s use of “Malay” even included inhabitants of Southeast Asian islands such as Marianas, the Philippines (shocking), the Malukus, Sundas, as well as Pacific Islands such as Tahitians.

The definition of “Malay” today has evolved to simply describe Malaysia’s majority race, who are also Muslims by default:

After the introduction of Islam from the middle east and Muslim Indian traders, most Malays in Malaysia became Muslims. As defined by the constitution of Malaysia (1957), Malays must be Muslim, regardless of their ethnic heritage; otherwise, they are not legally Malay.

And if any non-Muslim were to legally marry a Malay, they are first required to convert to Islam (mandatory by law). A Muslim Peranakan is hardly heard of, so the case of Chinese-mixed-Malay is debatable, or at least occurring only during the early pre-Muslim era.

^Family at a Peranakan gathering

PERANAKAN ANCESTRY

Most Peranakans are of Hokkien ancestry. In my case, my mum’s parents are Peranakans of Cantonese descent. Like many other Straits Chinese, they settled in Malacca and adopted the Peranakan culture while maintaining a pure bloodline.

A well written example is from the author of nyonyafood.com, Bee Yinn Low:

“My late grandmother who was a Penang Nyonya certainly didn’t marry a local Malay man. In fact, she married my late grandfather who came all the way from China during the Qing dynasty. I heard stories from my late father that he came complete with Qing dynasty’s costume and the signature “Queue” hairstyle: half shaved head with a long pigtail. However, my late grandmother was always dressed in Nyonya kebaya and sarong, with her hair braided neatly in a bun.”

^Nyonya baskets.

PERANAKAN IN TEXTBOOKS

History text books in Malaysian schools depict the Peranakans as stemming from the interracial marriage of Malacca’s founder – Srivijaya’s Parameswara and China’s “princess” – Hang Li Po. This is highly debatable, as Malaysia’s history is filled with legends that remain unproven, written and taught in school to instill Malay supremacy over other races. In fact, the story of the Hindu Parameswara converting to Islam is also unproven.

^Wooden clogs commonly worn by Peranakans. I remember wearing these when I was growing up in my grandparent’s kampung house. It’s also fondly known as “kak kiak” for the noisy sound it makes

^Nyonya egg basket. Very cute

WHY ARE THE PERANAKANS ONLY IN THE BRITISH STRAITS?

Their family wealth and connections enabled them to form a Chinese elite, whose loyalty was strictly to Britain or the Netherlands (who colonised the Straits – Malacca, Penang, Singapore). Most Peranakans embraced the English culture and education as a means to advance economically, thus administrative and civil service posts were often filled by prominent Straits Chinese.

The Peranakan community thereby became very influential in Malacca and Singapore and were known also as the King’s Chinese due to their loyalty to the British Crown.

In other words, this special relationship with the British essentially established their identity. With the British colony gone, the Peranakans are now diluted into mainstream local Chinese culture once more.

^Another Peranakan family. His costume is reminiscent of the Babas who worked within the British colony back then

WHAT ARE THE WAYS OF THE PERANAKAN?

LANGUAGE – Although the Peranakan language is commonly termed Baba Malay, it is not Malay. It’s actually Indonesian, mixed with some Hokkien dialect.

E.g.: The Peranakans say “kepiting”, which means crab in Javanese as opposed to “ketam” which is Malay.

Peranakan is also spoken among the Chinese living in East Java (Indonesia), especially in Surabaya.

DRESSING – The Nyonyas (female Peranakan) traditionally wear the Nyonya Kebaya, a combination of a fitted embroided top called Kebaya and the bottom piece called Batik Sarong.

^Nyonya Kebaya.

The Kebaya is the national costume of Indonesia, although it is more accurately endemic to Java, Sunda and Bali (still evident today as they’ve held strongly to their traditions). The earliest form of Kebaya originates in the court of the Javanese Majapahit Kingdom.

Javanese Kebaya as known today, were noted by Raffles (father of Singapore) in 1817. The earliest photographic evidence of the Kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Eurasian styles.

^Peranakan wedding costumes are elaborate and essentially Chinese.

Beaded slippers called Kasut Manek were a hand-made made with much skill and patience: strung, beaded and sewn onto canvas with tiny faceted glass beads from Bohemia (Czech Republic). This crafting ability was crucial back then in determining a Nyonya’s worth.

^Kasut Manek.

FOOD – Peranakan Chef Peter Wee shares “We use pork and the wok in cooking, so that’s from the Chinese, and many different spices such as coriander and lemongrass, which come from Malay and Indian influences.”

^Author of nyonyafood.com, Bee Yinn Low shares “Making Nyonya food is no simple affair. The unique and highly flavorful cuisine requires abundant amount of time, patience, and skills. A true Nyonya would spend hours and hours pounding her rempah (spices) with batu giling (a flat slab of stone to grind the spices) to cook up authentic Nyonya dishes such as Perut Ikan (pickled fish stomach with vegetables stew), Salted Fish Pineapple Curry (Gulai Kiam Hu Kut in Hokkien), and other scrumptious Nyonya concoctions.”

Below are recipes of popular Peranakan dishes, most of which are prepared by Bee Yinn Low.

^Sambal Udang (prawn sambal) – Only complete with petai! one of my personal favourites, and something my mum whips up regularly.

^Rempah Fish (fried fish stuffed with sambal) – Another one of my mum’s favourite item.

^Acar (pickled mixed vegetables in a spicy and sour sauce) – Grandma’s regular concoction.

^Asam Prawn (tamarind fried prawn) – Another regular dish coming from mum’s wok.

^Asam Laksa (Nyonya noodles with fish broth) – As always, best eaten in Penang.

^Buah Keluak (pangium edule nut) – Often touted as the gem of Peranakan cuisine. These nuts are imported from Indonesia, and only a handful of Peranakans today know how to cook it. I’m determined to learn this from my grandparents or uncle.

^Babi Pong Teh (sweet pork stew) is by far my ultimate favourite dish, and I’m proud to say that it’s 110% Peranakan – even more proud to say that my mum cooks the best Pong Teh ever!

Here’s a list of dishes to give you an idea on how Peranakan/Nyonya cuisine differ from the Malay’s.

PRESERVING THE CULTURE

Peranakan was formed back then, inherited ever since, and fading quickly today.

Besides visiting the places listed below, I vow to learn how to cook as many Peranakan dishes as possible from my grandparents, mum and uncle. Sadly, once my grandfather passes on, I will cease to speak the language.

Here’s how you can get in touch with the culture:

^For a combination of Peranakan food, architecture, people, clothing, etc, head to Malacca and go back in time at Jonker Walk/Street. Although commercialised, Jonker Walk and its parallel streets still carry the original architecture dating back to the time of British Colonisation in the Straits.

^If you’re in Singapore, visit the S$12,000,000 Peranakan Museum which houses the world’s most comprehensive collection of Peranakan artefacts.

^For an authentic feel of a Peranakan’s home, visit the Pinang Peranakan Museum (Hai Kee Chan) in George Town, Penang, Malaysia.

^Watch Singapore’s hit TV series The Little Nyonya.